Amazing Kyushu: Kagoshima part 1

It's Ubon season again and almost everyone in Japan gets to have a week-long vacation (apparently not declared officially as holiday) away from the hustle bustle of the cities as many Japanese go back to their hometowns to visit the their relatives and pay tribute to their ancestors; very much like the All Saints and Souls days in some Catholic nations.  Not everyone however follow this tradition every year and some may opt to travel either around Japan or other parts of the globe. If you're a foreigner (gaijin) who have no families or ancestor graves to visit this Ubon, the options are countless (lol). And because I want to save you from reading such a lengthy post, I give you only three choices here. You can either (a) catch up with the backlogs at work (seriously?) (b) stay home and do things you never get to do during regular days (heaven knows what), or (c) travel around Japan and spend these glorious days to the fullest. I was fortunate to get to choose option (c)! Since I have been dying for almost a year to visit a beautiful onsen located in Kyushu, I packed my bags and headed to explore the southern tip of the Japanese mainland. First stop, Kagoshima prefecture. Getting there is a lot easier and cheaper nowadays compared to several years ago when there's only a handful of airlines operating around Japan. Although the Kyushu shinkansen has been operational years back, the competition between a growing number of low cost carriers or LCCs have helped bring down the ticket prices to affordable, student friendly levels. Of these LCCs , one name stands out: Peach! It flies out of Kansai (KIX) to a number of international and domestic destinations including Kagoshima. You can reach KIX from other parts of Kansai  (although relatively far from the city center) either by trains (Nankai and JR) or by ferry (from Kobe and other places?). And since I like trains, I couldn't resist the temptation of riding one of the most badass looking airport express in the galaxy, the rapi:t service of Nankai!

The rapi:t airport express service of Nankai line in Namba station

And all it takes is 510 yen more on top of your regular fare (I know what you're thing but hey, I don't get to ride this everyday :D ). We reached Kagoshima at past lunchtime and immediately went to the rent-a-car shop where we picked up our rented car and drove around Kagoshima. We visited Kirishima shrine in the mountainous region of Kagoshima where we prayed to the Shinto gods and bought amulets. While driving on to our next destination, I couldn't help but notice the lush green pine tree forests hugging the mountains like thick blankets. There were many onsen facilities and hotels a long the way and we could smell the sulfur emanating from steams of natural hot springs beside the road. As we traveled downhill, the views were changing and the mountainous backdrop was slowly replaced by the sea. We stopped at a park beside a boulevard where there was a free foot bath offering an amazing view of Sakurajima, an active volcanic island located a few kilometers off the coast of Kagoshima city. 

Foot bath with a view :)

Tourists and locals dip their feet in the warm waters of the foot bath while enjoying the breathtaking view of the volcano and the sea. Too bad we couldn't stay long since it was getting dark. After relaxing for a few minutes, we headed towards the island volcano. I thought we would ride a ferry but I was surprised to learn that after the 1920s eruption, Sakurajima became physically connected to the Kyushu island. I was even more surprised to know there are people living there. The village that we visited sit very near to one of the calderas of Sakurajima that we could see up close. The locals of the island seemed to have learned to coexist with the unpredictable volcano and in case of an eruption, evacuation can be done swiftly unlike during the Taisho period (1920s) when the early settlers weren't as fortunate. In fact, there was one part of the village that continuously reminds everyone of that devastating eruption.

The tip of a shrine gate once stood 3 meters from the ground before the Sakurajima eruption

The structure in the photo is what now remains visible part of a shrine gate that once stood 3 meters high before the Taisho eruption. When Sakurajima erupted, it expelled enormous amount of ashes aside from lava and molten rocks that covered entire villages. Within an hour according to the locals, the ashes piled up to a height of more than three meters, enough to cover the shrine gate. It was subsequently dug out up to the tip after the eruption and now under the care of the students of a nearby junior high school. 

Sakurajima volcano 

Since it was getting dark, we left the village and drove to the nearby port on the side of the island facing the city where roll-on roll-off ships ferry passengers and cars to Kagoshima city. The journey took only 15 minutes and the fare was very cheap! Ships arrive every 15 minutes and operate 24/7! The city centre is relatively small compared to other cities of Japan but comfortable. Getting around the city was easy as many places were short walks away and for areas that were kinda out of reach, Kagoshima has a tram (chinchin densha). The tram connects important parts of the city such as the JR Kagoshima station, shopping and business districts. We went to an izakaya to try local foods and ordered black pig's spare rib, frozen raw chicken and raw fish (I forgot the name) fillet. 

Black pig's spare rib

Raw fish fillet

The spare rib had a succulent and soft meat perfectly complimented by the sauce. It was one of the best spare ribs I have ever tasted. Don't ever miss this dish when you visit Kagoshima! The frozen raw chicken on the other hand did not create that much impression. The raw chicken I ate before (I wrote it here +link) seemed to have better texture and flavor than the frozen one. Nonetheless, it is one of the favorite local dishes here, and it's worth a try. The raw fish fillet however was delicious! Dipped in a sauce made from a concoction of sweet miso, lemon, vinegar and some (secret?) spices, my typical concept of sashimi was blown into pieces. It tasted complicated at first and yet mysteriously found harmony as I chew, forcing me to say ume! The day was ended with several glasses of beer but not to a point of getting too drunk as we had lots of activities and places waiting for us the following day. (That's all for now, there's part 2 coming up) 

Hatsumode: Visiting Osaka's Sumiyoshi Taisha Shrine

Unlike many other places on earth where New Year is celebrated with loud countdowns and parties, people (this doesn't count those in city centres where countdown parties are held) in Japan tend to welcome it rather quietly and peacefully. Indeed many people here flock the shrine on new year's eve to witness the ringing of the bell at 0:00 (midnight), however, the majority prefers to stay home eating soba, a symbol for longer life, watching Japanese comedy TV programs or doing their usual activities, letting the night pass without a single firecracker exploding (this is true for Onohara) or clang of pots can be heard. Instead, many wake up early the next day and head to a Shinto Shrine to pray and know their lucks for the rest of the year. This tradition is called Hatsumode which means "first shrine visit". This year I celebrated my New Year's eve the Japanese way and to pay respect to this very old Shinto tradition, I also did hatsumode. The Shrine that we visited is called Sumiyoshi Taisha also known as the Sumiyoshi Grand Shrine located in Sumiyo ward in Osaka city.

The shrine was full of thousands of visitors when we arrived. Because of this and the huge size of the shrine, confusion as to where the main entrance is naturally arrised. While trying to figure out our way, I managed to take some pictures of the place.

The shrine is dedicated to the god who takes care of those traveling on the sea and I couldn't help but wonder why it's located quite distant from the port. I quickly got my answer from my friend who explained that in the ancient times, Sumiyoshi Taisha used to be near the sea and that meant a lot of places near the port (and the port itself) used to be underwater!

Among the landmarks of the shrine, the most striking is the red bridge arching over a pond where visitors have to walk on through to get to the main praying area. As in all shrines, we had to observe certain ways on how to do rituals of praying to the Shinto gods. I wrote them here and hopefully this may help you when you do your own hatsumode.

1. First of all, locate a place where there's a source of flowing water that typically looks like an overflowing well with dippers made of bamboo or wood. Pick one with your right hand and scoop water and gently wash your left hand (palm). Make sure you don't pour all the water in your dipper. Trasfer the dipper to your left hand and wash your right hand. Again make sure not to drain your dipper. Then hold the dipper with your right hand and put some water in your mouth with the aid of your left palm. Let this water run through your teeth like gargling (not as intensive as when your brushing your teeth). Spit it out gently. Now there should still be some water remaining in your dipper. Incline the dipper vertically slowly and let the remaining water flow on your dipper's handle. Water is very important in Shintoism as it sybolises purity. It's quite difficult to describe the whole procedure in writing but I hope you've got something from this. The most effective way is to observe how they do it before trying it yourself.

2. Next, find the (main) praying area of the shrine. This typically where a lot of people are throwing money on some sort of an altar or pedestal. Throw coins on this area and bow twice then clap twice and say your prayers or wish and bow one more time. You can throw any amount you like but preferably at least around 10 yen.

3. The last thing to do during hatsumode is to know what it's going to be like for you this year so head to the nearest area where shinto priests are and pay some amount ranging from 200 to 500 yen. They will then ask you to shake a wooden cylinder in which there are wooden sticks with numbers. Let one of these stick out through a hole (don't pull it out completely) of the wooden container and read out the number to the priest (show it if you can't read the number in Japanese) and she will give you a paper that tells you your luck for the whole year. Unfortunately it might be written in Japanese and you might have to ask somebody to translate it for you. Although as far as I know, there are a few shrines such as the ones in Kobe where there is an English translation at the back of the paper. Now assuming that you have already read your luck, you can either keep the paper if you like what was written on it or tie it to some tree or strings if you don't like it.

If in case you get hungry on your first shrine visit of the year, there are plenty of foods being sold around the shrine. You can also grab some souvenirs there if you  want. 

So there you go folks. Have fun on your hatsumode next year!